Hanging Heavy Mosaics


 
Post new topic Reply to topic
   ArchitectureWeek DesignCommunity Forum Index » Construction Forum
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
rb



Joined: 27 Dec 2004
Posts: 1
Location: Saskatoon, Sk. Canada

PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2004 10:25 am    Post subject: Hanging Heavy Mosaics Reply with quoteFind all posts by rb

I create mosaics, not your run of the mill broken plate mosaics. Primarily floor and kitchen back splashes, I am now being asked by clients for mosaic mirrors. As any one who knows me knows these will probably be colossal and along with that comes weight. Intentions are to construct each mosaic of granite, marble, jade, stainless steel and mirror with an estimated size of 7 - 10 feet tall with widths of 3 - 6 feet and backed with 3/4" plywood. I'm planning on using a twin bracket system to mount to the wall (hopfully hitting two studs). One piece is glued and screwed to the plywood backing the other to the wall. My calculations put these mosaic mirrors between 100 and 175 lbs. In the event I can't zero in on a stud, is there a calculation for the amount of weight a gyprock or plasterboard wall ancor will hold. I've checked with stores "trial and error"
I don't think so.... If any one has info - it would GREATLY be appreciated
Arbie

_________________
Creating the difference between ordinary and extraordianry...
Back to top
View user's profileSend private messageSend e-mailVisit poster's website    share:   blogger     del.icio.us     digg     slashdot    
RWL



Joined: 10 May 2004
Posts: 399

PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2004 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by RWL

Personally, I would not rely just on the horizontal [perpendicular] attachment into the wall. I would try to devise some sort of "seat" or "ledge" that would be fitted below the panels [out of sight] which will take the vertical [dead load] of the panels.

Granted such seats would be attached horizontally into the wall, but the vertical panels will tend to rotate off or pull away from the wall. By having the seats, you literally set the panels on them which reduces the tendency to rotate.

In any event, ther anchorage must be rather hefty to ensure that the valuable panels are not allowed to drop, rotate or otherwise fall off the wall. Most anchors, be they screws, lag bolts, toggle bolts, etc. come with some information about how much weight they will hold. This may be a little beyond them but a good hardware store coudl provde some insight in this regard.
Back to top
View user's profileSend private message    share:   blogger     del.icio.us     digg     slashdot    
Donald



Joined: 16 Apr 2004
Posts: 493

PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2004 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by Donald

Quote:
In the event I can't zero in on a stud, is there a calculation for the amount of weight a gyprock or plasterboard wall ancor will hold.


Its called a stud finder and the calculation for a good one is approximately $15??? I've seen book shelves rip off the wall due to weaknoanchorpointloads trying to be held up with paper and gyp backing only.

So find the stud and anchor to it with proper anchorage and quit trying to devise a steelangleplateledge to hold the bottom...the vanity top will do that if the miffor is in fact on top of the backsplash.
Back to top
View user's profileSend private messageSend e-mail    share:   blogger     del.icio.us     digg     slashdot    
SDR
millennium club


Joined: 02 Oct 2004
Posts: 1712
Location: San Francisco

PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2004 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by SDR

I didn't think rb was referring to these mirror panels as resting on (earlier) backsplashs -- will they rest on the floor, rb? A strong Z-clip/cleat system, either proprietory or fabricated, aluminum, steel and/or lapped and glued 9- ply, will do the job, and all fasteners should engage wall studs. If (in this case) only two studs are available, the (wall) cleat should have two or more fasteners into EACH stud. It seems likely that even your narrowest panel (3') will "pick up" three normally-spaced studs. Right?

SDR
Back to top
View user's profileSend private message    share:   blogger     del.icio.us     digg     slashdot    
SDR
millennium club


Joined: 02 Oct 2004
Posts: 1712
Location: San Francisco

PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2004 7:18 pm    Post subject: the trick Reply with quoteFind all posts by SDR

PS -- The trick with all such cleats (if you haven't 'played' with them before) is to assure that they 'mate' perfectly: both surfaces have to be perfectly co-planar (flat, or of equal radius, no?). So shimming, etc, are the order of the day! Enjoy.
Back to top
View user's profileSend private message    share:   blogger     del.icio.us     digg     slashdot    
JWmHarmon



Joined: 15 Apr 2004
Posts: 112
Location: Ohio

PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2004 3:46 pm    Post subject: Liability for wall mounted mosaics Reply with quoteFind all posts by JWmHarmon

10 feet tall - 175 pounds (about three meters and 80 kilograms)
Children have been killed by falling stoves (the door acts as a lever that tips the stove over on top of the child), falling TV sets, and other falling objects. Stoves require a brace to prevent tipping. TV sets should be anchored so that they can not be pulled over. Consider the liability of installing these large mosaics.

You must make absolutely certain that objects of this size are securely fastened to the wall FRAMING and not to the drywall. Typical drywall is not structurally adequate for supporting this type of load. If you can't find adequate framing, you must not install your mosaics. A child's life may depend on adequate anchoring.

You might want to consider designing a frame for your mosaics that allows you to provide adequate support. This could even include mounting a steel bar to the wall and mounting the mosaic frame to that steel bar.

Whatever you do, it must be secure, even in an earthquake. While on that subject, please note that all - I repeat - ALL - cabinets should include wall anchors to prevent tipping over, not only from earthquakes, but from small (or large) children hanging on opened cabinet doors.
Back to top
View user's profileSend private messageSend e-mail    share:   blogger     del.icio.us     digg     slashdot    
Harv



Joined: 06 Jan 2005
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2005 10:51 am    Post subject: Drywall Fastener calculations Reply with quoteFind all posts by Harv

If you need to know how much different drywall fasteners will support, try
www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepair/drywall fastenerstrengths.htm. They have a good discussion of this subject with both tension and hear strenghts for several sizes and types of fasteners
Back to top
View user's profileSend private message    share:   blogger     del.icio.us     digg     slashdot    
SDR
millennium club


Joined: 02 Oct 2004
Posts: 1712
Location: San Francisco

PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2005 11:44 am    Post subject: To reiterate : Reply with quoteFind all posts by SDR

To reiterate points made above: A project of the scale and weight described MUST be anchored to the wall structure, not merely to sheetrock (although the wallboard fastener information cited would be useful for the hanging of smaller artworks, etc, and the link is appreciated). In addition to wood studs, steel studs formed from sheet metal of differing guages are increasingly used. The lighter guage studs are easily pierced by sharp-pointed sheetrock screws (Grabbers, etc) while the heavier ones require drill-point screws or even pilot-drilling. For heavy loads in the lighter studs, I would recommend fasteners that expand behind the surface when tightened. Again, if the weight of the object can be borne by ledgers or by resting on the floor, then the fasteners are not exposed to shear loading and are only working to keep the piece from pulling away from the wall; this would be the more desirable circumstance.

SDR
Back to top
View user's profileSend private message    share:   blogger     del.icio.us     digg     slashdot    
Arjanito



Joined: 02 Nov 2007
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quoteFind all posts by Arjanito

First of all if you make a mosaic mirror DO NOT USE CEMENT.

We use a special silicon. It reduces the weight of the mosaic. Easy and simpel...
Back to top
View user's profileSend private message    share:   blogger     del.icio.us     digg     slashdot    
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic Reply to topic
   ArchitectureWeek DesignCommunity Forum Index » Construction Forum Page 1 of 1

 




Latest Posts   ·   ArchWeek Jobs Board   ·   Classifieds   ·   User Galleries   ·   Scrapbook   ·   Open 3D Gallery
 Architecture Search   by name of Building, Architect, or Place:  
Buildings     Architects     Types & Styles     Places     Models     GB Image Index     ArchWeek Library
Professional Directory   Web Directory   Competitions   Conferences   Events & Exhibits     Products     Media Kit
DesignCommunity   ·   ArchWeek   ·   Great Buildings   ·   Archiplanet   ·   Books   ·   Blogs   ·   Free 3D   ·   Search
© 2004-2008 Artifice, Inc. · Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group
Thème myApple v2.0.1 créé par myTemplate